What exactly is meant by a classic? For one, it is a garment that stands the test of time and the fluctuation of trends exceptionally well, for instance, a pair of Levi’s jeans.

A classic item is also an easily recognisable cultural icon and a symbol defining an era or a subculture, like Dr. Martens boots.

Perhaps the concept can be connected to functionality: A classic is a garment that works in a number of situations and is a permanent favourite among consumers and experts.

Whatever the case may be, a classic item possesses a unique allure with historical and cultural significance that has a hold on us from one decade to the next.

Today, classics interest people also as a protest against ultra-fast fashion and throwaway culture.

Lasting design is not only about fashion – it can also be a question of ecological issues.

“Classics need to have the ability to adapt and stay alive and current in order to remain desirable.”

Susanna Björklund, Journalist, and Senior Lecturer and Foresight Specialist at LAB University of Applied Sciences, is one of Finland’s most sought-after experts in analysing fashion and trends.

Björklund points out that even though classics are often perceived as “eternal” and unchangeable, in order to survive they, too, are required to have the ability to be renewed and adapt to current times.

– The proportions of Levi’s 501 jeans, T-shirts or hoodies take different forms in different decades. Many classics are constantly in subtle motion undergoing changes. Sometimes a classic remains out of sight for a while only to emerge and make a comeback, she says.

You cannot talk about Finnish fashion classics without mentioning Marimekko. Maija Isola’s Poppy print (Unikko, created in 1964) turns 60 this year. According to Björklund, the longevity of the Poppy is due to its many variations and ability to adapt to current times:

– You have to admire how a simple flower has been a source of inspiration for creating something new. There have been so many ways of utilising it and keeping it relevant in different periods.

There is no blueprint for a classic

Marimekko’s Design Director of Home and Print Design, Minna Kemell-Kutvonen, is the person in charge of supervising the creation of the beloved brand’s new prints – and this is where, hopefully, the classics of the future emerge.

– You can never know for certain which product will go on to become a classic. This is something that people, the users, decide, she says.

Though the blueprint for creating a classic is a big mystery, Marimekko has been able to design an exceptional number of them in its 70-year history. How is that?

“You never know which product will go on to become a classic.”

Kemell-Kutvonen says the prints that have risen to become well-established classics have some things in common:

– They have typically been in some way unexpected when they have been launched, yet they have been easy to embrace and adopt into use. It is about timing as well: the design was launched at exactly the right time and managed to successfully reflect its time.

A great example of the importance of timing is Marimekko’s origin story in post-war Finland – a country cautiously optimistic about the future, and yet still grey and steeped in tradition.

– In a nation that was rebuilding itself, there was a need for bolder colours and patterns. In other words, the exact design philosophy Marimekko represents, says Kemell-Kutvonen.

Maija Isola’s iconic patterns

Looking back at Marimekko’s design history, Kemell-Kutvonen chooses Maija Isola’s Isot Kivet pattern depicting large rocks as her personal favourite. It was designed in 1959.

– It is the epitome of how a simplistic motif can be made very interesting. At first, it looks like a fairly systematic pattern, two circles next to one another. But, if they were identical, the print would not make such an impression on you. Maija knew how to create a rhythm that captures the eye, she says.

The origin story of the Isot Kivet print is linked to the designer’s own personal history. There is a sweet story behind it.

– According to the story, a cowshed was being built in Maija’s yard. There were large rocks around the yard for the stone foundation. She carried the theme into her artwork by cutting out stones from paper. Everyday life was consequently reflected in her design work, recounts Kemell-Kutvonen.

“The Poppy is strong, powerful and graphic – yet endearing and delightful.”

Unikko, the Poppy print, also celebrates its anniversary in 2024. It, too, is one of Isola’s most beloved creations. Kemell-Kutvonen has, through the decades, often pondered what makes the Poppy so unique and beloved:

– I see it as a fascinating combination of opposing forces. The Poppy is strong, powerful and graphic – yet endearing and delightful.

Where do new classics come from?

Minna Parikka’s iconic bunny-eared sneakers serve as an example of prospective Finnish classics.

For Susanna Björklund, other examples of Finnish classic garments outside Marimekko include the anorak by R-Collection and the brim hat designed by Vuokko Nurmesniemi.

– There is something about Vuokko’s summer hat that makes it very recognisable. Perhaps it’s not quite in the canon, but it can be considered a classic, she says.

It is impossible to predict the classics of the future, but Björklund regards the level of the LAB students as well as young Finnish designers in general as high:

– I have a firm belief in our future designers. There are interesting up-and-coming Finnish designers with their own recognisable expression. Having a strong signature style is essential when it comes to making a classic item.

“There are interesting up-and-coming Finnish designers with a strong signature style.”

Marimekko’s Kemell-Kutvonen considers Finnish fashion classics as works of art comparable to the masterpieces in the world of architecture and design. She, too, believes in our designers’ ability to come up with beloved classics in the future.

– The classic item of the future might combine sustainable solutions and timelessness with skilled use of materials and ingenious technical solutions in a manner that is not too complex, she sums up.